Why Dog Dental Care Matters More Than You Think
My vet once told me my two-year-old Lab had the mouth of a ten-year-old dog. I’d never missed a checkup, fed her quality food, kept her at a healthy weight — but I’d completely ignored her teeth. Turns out I’m not alone. Most veterinarians agree that the majority of dogs over three have some degree of dental disease, and the American Veterinary Medical Association puts that figure around 80%. That’s not a typo.
What really got my attention was learning that dental disease doesn’t stay in the mouth. The bacteria from infected gums can enter the bloodstream and damage the heart, liver, and kidneys. I’d been worrying about what brand of kibble to buy while my dog was dealing with chronic mouth pain she couldn’t tell me about. Dogs are hardwired to hide discomfort — it’s a survival instinct — so by the time you notice something’s wrong, the problem has usually been brewing for months. And then you’re looking at extractions, anaesthesia, and a vet bill that makes your eyes water.
I wish someone had told me all of this before I found out the hard way. So that’s what this guide is: everything I’ve learned about keeping dogs’ teeth healthy, from daily brushing (yes, really, daily) to professional cleanings to the products that actually work versus the ones that are just marketing fluff.
Common Dental Problems in Dogs
Knowing what can go wrong helps you catch it early. Here’s what vets see most often.
Periodontal Disease
This is the big one. It starts innocently enough: plaque, that sticky bacterial film, builds up on the teeth. Within a day or two it hardens into tartar (your vet might call it calculus), and once it’s hardite, no amount of brushing will shift it. Only a professional scaling can remove tartar. As it creeps below the gum line, it triggers inflammation, infection, and eventually eats away at the bone holding the teeth in place.
Vets classify periodontal disease in four stages. Stage 1 is gingivitis — red, puffy gums, but no bone loss yet. This is the only stage that’s fully reversible, which is why catching it here matters so much. Stage 2 means you’ve lost up to 25% of bone support around affected teeth. Stage 3 is where things get ugly: 25% to 50% bone loss, teeth starting to loosen, and extractions becoming a real possibility. Stage 4? More than 50% bone loss. At that point the tooth is coming out, full stop.
What nobody told me is how fast this progression can happen in smaller breeds. My friend’s Yorkie went from “looks fine” to Stage 3 in under a year.
Fractured Teeth
Dogs chew on stupid things. I say that with love — mine once cracked a premolar on an antler I’d bought her specifically as a “dental health chew.” The irony wasn’t lost on me. Antlers, real bones, ice cubes, and rock-hard nylon toys are the usual suspects. A cracked tooth exposes the pulp (the nerve and blood supply inside), which is incredibly painful and basically rolls out the red carpet for bacteria. If you can see a crack or chip, get to the vet. Don’t wait and see.
Tooth Root Abscesses
These are nasty. When bacteria work their way down to the root of a tooth, usually through an untreated fracture or advanced gum disease, an abscess forms. The telltale sign is a swelling just below the eye or along the jaw, sometimes with a weeping wound. I’ve seen owners mistake this for an insect bite or allergic reaction. It’s not. It’s a pocket of infection that needs antibiotics and either a root canal or extraction. Don’t mess around with abscesses.
Retained Baby Teeth
Puppies have 28 baby teeth that should fall out as their 42 adult teeth come in, usually by six or seven months. Sometimes the baby teeth hang on stubbornly, creating a double row that traps food and accelerates plaque buildup. If your pup still has double teeth at seven months, mention it to your vet. A quick extraction now prevents crowding problems later.
Oral Tumours and Growths
Less common but worth knowing about. Dogs can develop lumps and masses in their mouths, some benign, some not. This is one of the reasons regular dental checks matter — your vet might spot something you’d never see. Any unusual lump, discoloured patch, or growth in your dog’s mouth needs professional evaluation. Don’t Google it and panic. Just book the appointment.
Warning Signs Your Dog Has a Dental Problem
Here’s the frustrating part: dogs are brilliant at hiding pain. Your dog could have a cracked molar or an infected gum and still wag their tail at dinner time. So you have to play detective. These are the signs I’ve learned to watch for.
Bad breath is the obvious one. Not normal dog breath — I mean a smell that makes you recoil. That usually means infection or decay. Then there’s the eating changes: dropping food, tilting their head while chewing, suddenly refusing kibble in favour of soft food. Red or bleeding gums are a clear signal, as is excessive drooling, especially if there’s blood in it.
The one that caught me off guard was the head-tilting while eating. I genuinely thought my dog was just being quirky. Nope — sore tooth, left side.
Other things to watch for: pawing at the mouth or face, visible yellow-brown buildup along the gum line, loose or missing teeth, and a sudden reluctance to play with chew toys they used to love. Facial swelling below the eye or along the jaw usually points to an abscess. And sometimes the only sign is a subtle behavioural shift — less energy, more irritability, eating less. If something feels off, trust your gut and get a dental exam booked.
How to Brush Your Dog’s Teeth: A Step-by-Step Guide
I’ll be honest — I was terrible at this for years. The idea of brushing my dog’s teeth felt ridiculous. But daily brushing genuinely is the single most effective thing you can do for your dog’s dental health. It removes plaque before it hardens into tartar, and it takes less time than scrolling through your phone on the sofa. Here’s how to actually make it work, even with a dog who thinks you’re trying to murder them.
What You’ll Need
A dog toothbrush (finger brushes are great for beginners and small dogs; long-handled brushes work better for bigger breeds), enzymatic toothpaste made for dogs (never human toothpaste — fluoride and xylitol are toxic to dogs), and treats. That’s it. Don’t overcomplicate this.
Getting Started (This Is the Hard Part)
Don’t just shove a toothbrush in your dog’s mouth on day one. That’s a recipe for a bad time for everyone involved. I spent three weeks getting my German Shepherd used to a finger brush, and honestly, that’s not unusual.
Start by simply touching your dog’s muzzle and lifting their lips for a few days. Just that. Reward with treats. Then progress to running your finger along their gums and teeth. Keep sessions short, maybe 30 seconds, and stop before your dog gets stressed. You’re building trust here, not checking a box.
Once your dog is relaxed with mouth handling, let them taste the toothpaste from your finger. Most enzymatic toothpastes come in poultry or beef flavour, so dogs usually treat this as a snack. The poultry flavour is the only one my dogs ever liked — vanilla-mint was a hard no.
The Actual Brushing
Put a pea-sized amount of toothpaste on a finger brush or gauze wrapped around your finger. Rub the outer surfaces of the teeth in small circles, concentrating on the gum line where plaque builds up fastest. Start with just the front teeth. The first few sessions, you might only get to four or five teeth before your dog’s had enough. That’s fine.
Over a couple of weeks, work your way toward the back teeth. Once your dog tolerates the finger brush, switch to a soft-bristled toothbrush. Angle it at about 45 degrees toward the gum line. Focus on the outer surfaces; the tongue does a decent job on the inner sides.
Aim for daily brushing. If that feels impossible, at least three or four times a week. Here’s the thing though — a quick 60-second brush every day beats a thorough five-minute session once a month. Consistency is everything. Plaque reforms within hours; if you’re only brushing monthly, you’re essentially starting from scratch every time.
One thing that made a huge difference for us: ending every session with a treat and some praise. Within two weeks, our dog was actually excited when the toothbrush came out. Not joking. Pavlov was onto something.
Professional Dental Cleaning: What to Expect
Even if you’re brushing religiously, most dogs need professional cleanings periodically. Think of it like how you still go to the dentist even though you brush twice a day. A professional cleaning reaches places your toothbrush can’t, especially below the gum line.
What Happens During a Professional Cleaning
First, your dog gets pre-anaesthetic blood work to make sure they’re healthy enough for general anaesthesia. Yes, it requires full anaesthesia. I know that makes people nervous (it made me nervous), but it’s the only way to do a thorough, safe job. Your dog needs to be completely still for scaling below the gum line and for dental X-rays.
Speaking of which — and I cannot stress this enough — insist on dental X-rays. About 60% of dental disease is hidden below the gum line. A cleaning without X-rays is like painting over a damp wall. You’ll feel better temporarily, but you haven’t actually addressed the problem. The X-rays reveal what’s happening at the tooth roots and in the jawbone.
After that, the vet does a full oral exam (checking every tooth, the gums, tongue, palate, and throat), then uses ultrasonic instruments to scale away plaque and tartar above and below the gum line. The teeth get polished to create a smoother surface that’s harder for plaque to grip. If they find problems — cracked teeth, deep pockets, bone loss — they’ll discuss extractions or other treatment while your dog is still under.
A word on anaesthesia-free cleanings: in my opinion, they’re a waste of money and potentially harmful. I’ll die on that hill. They can only scrape visible tartar off the crown of the tooth, which is cosmetic at best. They can’t clean below the gum line, they can’t take X-rays, and they can’t assess the 60% of disease you can’t see. The AVMA, the American Veterinary Dental College, and pretty much every board-certified veterinary dentist agrees. Don’t let the lower price tag fool you.
How Much Does It Cost?
In the US as of 2025-2026, a straightforward professional dental cleaning typically runs $300 to $800. That range depends on where you live (cities are pricier), the size of your dog (bigger dog equals more anaesthesia and a longer procedure), and whether X-rays are included. If extractions are needed, you can be looking at $1,500 or more. I got quoted $2,100 for my Lab’s cleaning plus three extractions in 2025 — and that was considered reasonable for my area.
It stings. But treating advanced periodontal disease, abscesses, or jawbone infections costs significantly more and puts your dog through significantly more suffering. If you have pet insurance, check whether dental is covered. Many plans include cleanings and medically necessary procedures.
How Often?
Most vets recommend every one to two years for adult dogs. Small breeds and flat-faced breeds (Pugs, Bulldogs, Shih Tzus, French Bulldogs) are more prone to dental disease because of their crowded mouths, so they often need annual cleanings. Larger breeds with good genetics and consistent home care can sometimes stretch to every two years. Ask your vet what they recommend for your specific dog — there’s no universal answer here.
Best Dental Products for Dogs
I’ve tried a lot of dental products over the years. Some are genuinely helpful. Some are overpriced nonsense with nice packaging. Here’s what I actually recommend, and what I’d skip.
One thing to look for: the VOHC (Veterinary Oral Health Council) Seal of Acceptance. Products with this seal have been independently tested and proven to reduce plaque or tartar. It’s not a guarantee of quality, but it’s the closest thing we have to an objective standard.
Dental Chews
Dental chews are the easiest supplement to your brushing routine. The chewing action mechanically scrapes plaque off the teeth, and many chews include ingredients that help with breath and tartar.
Greenies are the gold standard in my house. They’re VOHC accepted for both plaque and tartar control, they come in sizes from teacup to large breed, and my dogs actually enjoy them. I give one daily. Are they perfect? No. They’re not a substitute for brushing, and I’ve heard from a few owners whose dogs inhaled them whole (always get the right size and supervise). But as a daily supplement, they’re hard to beat.
OraVet Dental Hygiene Chews are my second pick. They contain delmopinol, which creates a sort of protective barrier against bacteria on the teeth. Also VOHC accepted. They’re pricier than Greenies but seem to make a noticeable difference in breath.
Whimzees are a solid vegetarian option if your dog has protein sensitivities. The textured shapes do a decent job cleaning teeth, and they’re highly digestible. My dogs liked them but got bored faster than with Greenies.
A safety note: if you can’t dent a chew with your fingernail, it’s too hard for your dog’s teeth. This rules out most antlers, real bones, and some of those rock-hard nylon chews. I learned this the expensive way.
Toothpaste
I’ve tried six different toothpastes and Virbac C.E.T. Enzymatic Toothpaste is the only one both my dogs will tolerate. The poultry flavour is the winner; malt was ignored and vanilla-mint was actively spat out. What I like about it is that the enzymes keep working even after you stop brushing, so even a quick session has some benefit. It’s the one most vets recommend, and for good reason.
Petsmile Professional is the only toothpaste with the VOHC Seal, which is impressive. It uses an ingredient called Calprox that dissolves the protein layer plaque sticks to. It works well, but I’ll be honest — the smell is pretty strong, and one of my dogs wasn’t a fan of the taste. Worth trying though, especially if your dog isn’t picky.
Arm & Hammer Clinical Care is a decent budget option. Baking soda plus enzymes. It gets the job done without breaking the bank. Nothing exciting, but reliable.
Water Additives
Honestly, water additives never did much for my dogs. I used them for about six months and didn’t notice a meaningful difference in plaque or breath. That said, if your dog absolutely refuses to let you near their mouth with a toothbrush, a water additive is better than nothing.
Healthy Mouth Water Additive is the only one I’d specifically recommend because it has the VOHC seal. Oxyfresh is tasteless and odourless, which is useful if you have a picky drinker who’d otherwise refuse their water bowl. TropiClean is widely available and cheap.
But let me be clear: these are a last resort, not a strategy. They reduce some bacterial load, but they provide zero mechanical cleaning. Think of them as mouthwash — helpful, but not a replacement for actually brushing.
Dental Toys
The Kong Classic is brilliant for dental health, even though it’s not marketed as a dental product. The textured rubber cleans teeth as your dog chews, and you can stuff it with dog-safe toothpaste for a sneaky dental treatment. My dogs have destroyed countless toys but never a Kong.
The Dental Care Myth That Needs to Die
“My dog chews bones, so their teeth are clean.” I hear this constantly, and it drives me mad. Chewing raw bones does not clean your dog’s teeth in any meaningful clinical sense. It might scrape some surface-level plaque off a few teeth, but it does nothing below the gum line where periodontal disease actually develops. And the risk of fractured teeth, intestinal blockages, and broken jaw bones from bone chewing is very real. I’ve personally known three dogs who needed emergency dental surgery after cracking teeth on marrow bones their owners gave them specifically “for dental health.”
The same goes for the belief that dry kibble cleans teeth. It doesn’t. Most kibble shatters on contact and never touches the gum line. If kibble cleaned teeth, 80% of dogs wouldn’t have dental disease. The maths doesn’t add up.
There’s no shortcut here. Brushing, appropriate dental chews, and professional cleanings. That’s the trifecta. Everything else is a nice extra at best and a false sense of security at worst.
When to See the Vet: Don’t Wait Until It’s an Emergency
I put off my Lab’s dental appointment for almost a year because she “seemed fine.” She ended up needing three extractions and a deep cleaning under general anaesthesia. The total bill was over $2,000, and she was clearly in pain during recovery. If I’d gone in when I first noticed the tartar buildup, we probably could have handled it with a routine cleaning for a third of the cost.
Schedule a dental exam at least once a year. If your dog is a small breed, flat-faced breed, or over seven years old, twice a year isn’t overkill. Get in sooner if you notice any of the warning signs I mentioned earlier — bad breath, eating changes, red gums, facial swelling, drooling.
And please, start dental care early. Puppies should get used to mouth handling and tooth brushing from the day you bring them home. It’s a hundred times easier to teach a curious, adaptable puppy than to wrestle a fully grown Rottweiler who has never had a finger in their mouth. Trust me on this one.
Your dog can’t book their own dental appointment. They can’t tell you their tooth hurts. They’re relying on you to notice and act. It’s one of those invisible parts of dog ownership that doesn’t get the attention it deserves, but it makes a massive difference to their quality of life. Start today, even if it’s just lifting a lip and taking a look. You might be surprised by what you find.
Featured Image Source: Pexels
