My Border Collie, Jax, used to lose his mind when anyone knocked on the door. Barking, jumping, spinning in circles — the whole production. A trainer friend watched this chaos unfold one afternoon and said five words that changed everything: “Have you taught him place?”
I hadn’t. And honestly, I’d been training dogs for over a decade at that point. I knew sit, down, stay, come, leave it — the whole standard lineup. But “place” wasn’t on my radar. Within two weeks of teaching it, Jax would trot to his mat when the doorbell rang and park himself there. No drama. It was the single most useful command I’ve ever taught a dog, and I’m genuinely frustrated it took me that long to discover it.
If you’re wondering how to teach a dog place command without expensive classes or weeks of confusion, you’re in the right spot. I’m going to walk you through a seven-day plan that works for puppies, adult dogs, and even those wonderfully stubborn breeds that like to pretend they can’t hear you.
Why ‘Place’ Is the Most Underrated Dog Command
Every basic obedience class covers sit. Every YouTube video teaches recall. But place? It gets glossed over, and that’s a shame — because it’s the command that actually makes your daily life easier.
Think about it. Sit is momentary. Stay requires constant management. But place gives your dog a job: go to this specific spot and hang out there until I say otherwise. It creates a default behavior for chaotic moments. Instead of your dog deciding what to do when things get exciting (and dogs make terrible decisions when excited), you’ve already given them an answer.
Professional trainers use place constantly. Service dog organizations build their entire public access training around it. And once your dog truly understands it, place becomes a self-settling exercise — dogs actually relax on their mat because they’ve practiced it so many times.
Real Situations Where Place Solves Problem Behaviors
- Door dashing and guest jumping — Dog goes to mat instead of mobbing visitors
- Begging at the dinner table — Place during meals means no more sad eyes two inches from your plate
- Counter surfing — Can’t steal food from the kitchen if you’re on your mat in the living room
- Reactivity management — Gives reactive dogs a focus point and a practiced calm behavior
- Vet and groomer visits — A portable mat becomes a familiar “safe zone” in stressful environments
I’ve seen place training transform dogs that owners were ready to rehome. Not because the dog was bad — because nobody had given the dog a clear instruction for what TO do during tricky moments.
Place vs Stay — What’s the Difference
People mix these up all the time. Here’s the distinction:
| Place | Stay | |
|---|---|---|
| Location | Dog must be on a specific object (mat, bed, platform) | Dog stays wherever they happen to be |
| Position | Dog can sit, down, or stand — their choice | Usually locked into one position (sit-stay, down-stay) |
| Duration | Typically longer (minutes to an hour+) | Usually shorter (seconds to a few minutes) |
| Mental state | Dog learns to settle and relax | Dog is actively “holding” a position |
| Release | Specific release word needed | Specific release word needed |
The biggest practical difference: place teaches relaxation. Stay teaches impulse control. Both are valuable, but place is what you need for real life. A dog in a down-stay is braced and waiting. A dog on place eventually sighs, flops onto their hip, and chills out. That’s the magic.
What You Need Before Starting
Don’t overcomplicate this. You need three things: a mat, good treats, and about ten minutes a day for seven days.
Choosing the Right Mat or Bed (Size, Portability)
Your dog needs a clearly defined boundary — something they can see and feel under their paws. Options that work well:
For home training: A flat mat, a dog bed with low sides, or even a towel folded in half. I started Jax on a yoga mat cut in half because that’s what I had. It worked fine. The mat should be large enough for your dog to comfortably lie down with nothing hanging off the edges. For a 60-pound dog, you’re looking at roughly 30 x 40 inches minimum.
For portability: Invest in a rollable travel mat once your dog understands the concept. Brands like Molly Mutt and YETI make durable options that pack flat. Being able to bring the mat to restaurants, friend’s houses, and the vet is where place training really pays off.
Skip anything too cushy at first. A giant memory foam bed is great for sleeping, but for training, you want something with a clear edge your dog can distinguish. Flat mats with a visible border work best in the early stages.
Treat Selection for High-Repetition Training
You’re going to burn through a lot of treats in seven days. This isn’t the time for those rock-hard biscuits that take 30 seconds to chew. You need:
- Soft treats you can break into pea-sized pieces — Zuke’s Minis, Wellness Soft Puppy Bites, or homemade boiled chicken
- High-value options for distraction training on Days 6-7 — string cheese, hot dog bits, freeze-dried liver
- A treat pouch on your hip so rewards come fast
Speed matters in the early stages. The treat needs to appear within one to two seconds of the correct behavior. Fumbling in a bag on the counter kills your timing. Wear the pouch. Trust me.
Quick math: if you do three 5-minute sessions daily and reward every 10-15 seconds during early shaping, you’ll go through 60-90 treats per day. Cut them small. Adjust meals accordingly so your dog doesn’t gain weight during training week.
Day-by-Day Training Schedule
Here’s your complete dog place training step by step. Each day builds on the last. Don’t skip ahead even if your dog seems like a genius on Day 2 — the foundation matters.
Keep sessions short: 5 minutes, three times per day. Fifteen minutes total. That’s it. Dogs learn better in short bursts, and you’ll both stay motivated.
Day 1-2: Luring Onto the Mat (Capture and Shape)
Day 1 — Get paws on the mat:
Put the mat on the floor. Stand near it with treats in your pouch. Wait. Don’t say anything — no commands, no luring yet. Just watch.
Your dog will eventually investigate the mat. The second any paw touches it, mark with “yes!” and toss a treat ON the mat. Then toss a treat off the mat to reset them. Repeat.
Most dogs figure out within 5-10 repetitions that paws on mat = treats. Once they’re stepping onto it reliably, start waiting for all four paws. Then wait for a sit or a down on the mat before marking.
If your dog completely ignores the mat after two minutes, use a treat to lure them onto it. Hold the treat over the center of the mat so they have to step on to reach it. Mark and reward the moment all four paws land. But go back to waiting without luring as soon as possible — you want the dog choosing to get on the mat, not just following your hand.
Day 2 — Shape the down:
By now your dog should be hopping onto the mat voluntarily. Start holding out for a down position before marking. Most dogs will offer a sit first — don’t reward it. Wait three to five seconds. Many dogs will cycle through behaviors and try a down. The instant their belly hits the mat, jackpot — three treats in a row, delivered right between their paws on the mat.
End every session by tossing a treat away from the mat and picking the mat up. This teaches them the mat is only “active” when it’s out. Subtle, but important.
Day 3-4: Adding the Verbal Cue
Your dog is now running to the mat and lying down when they see it. Time to name the behavior.
The timing here matters. Say “place” (or “bed” or “mat” — pick one word and stick with it forever) right as your dog begins moving toward the mat. Not before. Not after. During the motion. You’re pairing the word with the action they’re already doing.
Sequence: dog sees mat → starts moving toward it → you say “place” → dog lies down on mat → mark “yes!” → treat on the mat.
After about 20 repetitions over Day 3, try saying “place” before they start moving. Stand six feet from the mat with your dog beside you. Say “place” once. Wait three seconds. If they go, huge party — mark, treat, treat, treat. If they don’t, walk closer to the mat and try again.
By Day 4, most dogs will go to the mat from 6-8 feet away on a single verbal cue. If yours isn’t there yet, that’s fine. Spend an extra day here. Rushing the verbal cue is the number one mistake in teach dog to go to bed on command training.
Day 5: Adding Duration (Start With 10 Seconds)
Until now, you’ve been treating the instant your dog lies down. Today you start building duration, and this is where the 3 Ds of dog training framework comes in. We’re tackling Duration first because it’s the most important for real-life use.
Start stupidly small. Dog lies on mat → wait ONE second → mark and treat. Then two seconds. Then three. If the dog gets up, you jumped too far too fast.
Build to 10 seconds by the end of your first session. By your third session on Day 5, aim for 30 seconds. The key is variable reinforcement — don’t always make it longer. After a 20-second hold, do a quick 5-second one. Then 15. Then 8. Then 25. Keep them guessing so they don’t learn to predict when the treat comes.
Introduce your release word today. I use “free” — some people use “okay” or “break.” When you want your dog to leave the mat, say the release word in a happy tone and toss a treat away from the mat. They need to learn that getting up is only correct when they hear the release word.
If your dog self-releases (gets up without being told), just calmly guide them back. No scolding. Reset and try a shorter duration.
Day 6: Adding Distance (Step Back, Then Return)
Your dog can hold place for 30+ seconds with you standing right there. Now add the second D: distance.
Start with one step. Dog lies on mat → take one step backward → immediately step back to the dog → mark and treat. The key is returning to the dog to treat — don’t call them off the mat to come get the reward.
Build incrementally: one step, two steps, three steps. Then try turning your back briefly. Then walking to a different part of the room. Always return to deliver the treat on the mat.
Common mistake here: adding distance AND duration at the same time. Don’t. When you increase one variable, decrease the others. Taking five steps away? Only ask for a 5-second hold. Asking for 30 seconds? Stay within arm’s reach.
By the end of Day 6, you should be able to walk to the other side of the room and back while your dog holds place. Some dogs nail this in one session. Herding breeds sometimes struggle because they want to follow you — if that’s your dog, use a baby gate or practice in a hallway where the mat is in a natural “dead end.”
Day 7: Adding Distractions (Doorbell, Walking Past)
The final D — distraction. This is where all your work pays off, and where most dog mat training for guests actually becomes practical.
Start with mild distractions:
1. Walk past the mat while your dog holds place
2. Bend down to pick something up
3. Clap your hands once
4. Have someone walk through the room
For each distraction, mark and treat your dog for staying on the mat. If they break, the distraction was too much — dial it back and build up again.
Then go for the big ones:
- Ring the doorbell (have someone help or use a recording on your phone)
- Knock on a table
- Drop a book on the floor
- Open the front door
Use your highest-value treats here. When your dog holds place while the doorbell rings, that’s a breakthrough moment — and they should get a jackpot for it. My rule: three treats in a row, praise, and then release for a bonus treat party.
Don’t expect perfection on Day 7. You’re introducing the concept that place means place no matter what’s happening. Real reliability takes two to four more weeks of daily practice, but by tonight, you’ll have a dog that understands the game.
Proofing Place for Real-Life Scenarios
The seven-day plan gives you a foundation. Now you proof it — which really just means practicing in the situations where you actually need it.
Holding Place When Guests Arrive
This is the holy grail for most people, and it requires a setup:
- Put the mat where you want your dog during greetings (near the door but not blocking it — I like 8-10 feet back)
- Send your dog to place before the guest enters
- Open the door and greet your guest yourself
- Have the guest ignore the dog completely for the first 30 seconds
- If the dog holds, walk the guest over to say hello calmly — this becomes the reward
- If the dog breaks, calmly return them to place and try again
The secret ingredient: practice with friends who’ll follow instructions. Don’t debut this with your mother-in-law who immediately baby-talks your dog the second she walks in. Set your dog up to succeed.
I practiced guest arrivals with my neighbor for three weeks. She’d come over, ring the bell, I’d send Jax to place, she’d walk in. Every single evening. It got boring. Then it became bulletproof.
Place During Family Mealtimes
Put the mat within eyesight of the dinner table but at least six feet away. Send your dog to place before you sit down with food. This one builds fast because dinner happens every day — built-in daily practice.
Start by eating just a few bites before releasing. Work up to full meals. If your dog breaks place, calmly return them without a treat, then reward them after 30 seconds of holding. The meal should never stop — if you jump up every time they break, getting up becomes a great way to get your attention.
After about two weeks of consistent practice, most dogs will just go to their mat automatically when they see you carrying plates to the table.
Taking the Place Mat to New Locations
Once place is solid at home, it travels. Bring the mat to:
- A friend’s house (great for holiday gatherings)
- Outdoor café patios
- The vet waiting room
- A park bench area
- Hotel rooms during travel
The familiar mat smell and texture tells your dog “I know this game” even in a brand new environment. Start with easier locations (quiet friend’s house) before trying busy ones (outdoor café). Expect some regression in new places — that’s normal. Just lower your criteria temporarily and rebuild.
I bring Jax’s travel mat literally everywhere. Restaurants, my parents’ house, even the mechanic’s waiting room. He sees it come out of my bag and just… gets on it. It’s become his portable calm zone.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Dog Keeps Getting Up Before Released
This is the most common issue, and it almost always means you pushed duration too fast. Go back two steps. If your dog was holding for 30 seconds and now keeps breaking at 15, train at 10 for a full day. Then rebuild.
Also check: are you inadvertently releasing your dog with body language? Shifting your weight forward, reaching for your treat pouch, or making eye contact can all signal “we’re done” to your dog. Practice being boring while they hold place. Stand still, look away, breathe normally.
One more thing — make sure you’re actually using your release word every single time. If you sometimes say “free” and sometimes just let them wander off, they’ll never learn to wait for it.
Dog Won’t Go to Place From a Distance
The dog understands place when they’re standing next to the mat but stares blankly from across the room. This is a distance problem, not a comprehension problem.
Fix it with a technique called “building a runway.” Start three feet from the mat, send to place, treat. Then four feet. Then five. Increase by one foot per session. If the dog stalls at any distance, go back to the last successful distance and do ten repetitions before trying again.
Also try tossing a treat onto the mat when you say “place” — just for a few reps to get the momentum going. Then fade the tossed treat quickly.
Dog Only Does Place for Treats
If your dog only performs when they see or smell treats, you’ve got a bribery problem, not a training problem. The fix:
- Start randomizing rewards. Sometimes treat on place, sometimes verbal praise only, sometimes a quick game of tug after release
- Hide the treats. Keep them in a drawer near the mat, not in your hand or pouch. Reward from the drawer after the dog performs
- Use real-life rewards. Going for a walk? Place first. Dinner time? Place first. The thing they want becomes the reward for the behavior
- Don’t phase treats out entirely — just make them unpredictable. Even my well-trained dog gets a treat on place maybe one out of every five times. It keeps the behavior strong
Frequently Asked Questions
What age can I start teaching place?
Puppies as young as 8 weeks can begin learning place basics. You won’t get long durations from a baby puppy — even 5 seconds is great at that age. But the concept of “get on this mat and good things happen” is absolutely something a young puppy can grasp. I started my Golden Retriever puppy at 9 weeks and she was reliably going to her mat by 14 weeks. Adjust your expectations for age, not your start date.
What if my dog is afraid of the mat?
Some dogs are wary of new objects on the floor, especially rescued dogs or naturally cautious breeds. Don’t force it. Place the mat on the ground and just leave it there for a day or two. Toss treats near it (not on it) so your dog approaches voluntarily. Then toss treats on the edge. Then the center. Let the dog build confidence at their own speed. I’ve seen fearful dogs take a full week just to comfortably stand on a mat — and that’s perfectly okay.
How long should my dog hold place?
For daily use, 15-30 minutes is a realistic and useful goal. During a dinner party or meal, 20-45 minutes. But don’t jump straight to marathon sessions — build duration gradually over weeks, not days. And always give your dog something to do during long place holds. A stuffed Kong or a chew toy on the mat makes extended duration much easier and more humane.
Can I use a crate instead of a mat?
You can, but I don’t recommend it as your primary place tool. Crates aren’t portable in the same way, and the open-mat version of place builds more genuine impulse control because the dog is choosing to stay without physical barriers. That said, if your dog already loves their crate, you can absolutely teach “crate” as a place-like command. Just know that mat training will generalize better to restaurants, parks, and other people’s homes.
Should I use a clicker or a verbal marker?
Either works. I use a verbal “yes!” because I don’t want one more thing to carry. But clickers are slightly more precise if you’re working on tricky timing. The most important thing is consistency — pick one marker and use it every single time you reward. Don’t switch between “yes,” “good,” and a clicker within the same session. Your dog needs a clear, predictable signal that the treat is coming.
Seven days won’t make your dog perfect at place. But it will give both of you a solid understanding of the game — your dog knows where to go and what to do there, and you know how to build on that foundation. The real magic happens in weeks two through six when you start using place in everyday moments and it stops being a “training exercise” and becomes just… how your dog operates.
Start tonight. Grab a towel, cut up some chicken, and spend five minutes rewarding your dog for putting their paws on it. That’s it. By this time next week, you’ll wonder how you ever managed without this command.
Featured Image Source: Pexels
